Battle (Better) of the Laksas - #FEastCoastRoad

It may not be intuitive to associate East Coast Road with Katong, but this is home to the famed 328 Katong Laksa that beat Gordon Ramsay’s b*tt back in 2013 when he came to Singapore for a cook-off with our hawker heroes.

Coincidentally, I was in the organiser’s marketing team and had the rare opportunity to work at the actual cook-off event in Newton Circus Food Centre. Ramsay lost by a margin of 19% on the laksa, and I can stand by this result after we did our round of taste test (Sorry, Chef!).

There are, in fact, several Katong laksa outlets that claim to be the best or the original; two of which are located on East Coast Road: 328 Katong Laksa at 51 East Coast Road, and The Original Katong Laksa at 50 East Coast Road (Level 1 coffeeshop in Roxy Square). If you are interested in the history of Katong laksa, there is a detailed write-up by Johorkaki.

We decided to make a trip to both outlets and let our taste buds decide which is the better one.

First stop: 328 Katong Laksa

We lucked out with a table indoors (I really needed aircon, because I walked 2km but that’s a story for another day) and ordered ourselves a small bowl of laksa ($5.50), a packet of nasi lemak ($3) and an otah ($1.30).

The food was ready pretty fast, and we saw a fiery red bowl of laksa looking at us.

I started on the laksa first while Sesame had the nasi lemak.

The broth (gravy?) was fragrant and surprisingly not as spicy as it looks. I could taste the rempah and the shrimpy fragrance was on point. But my positive point ends here.

This bowl of laksa just didn’t do it for me. While I’m a fan of mee tai mak / lo shu fun, I didn’t quite enjoy the cut thick bee hoon. Bean sprouts tasted raw and cockles were overcooked. Chilli was given on the side (in a sachet though, not sure why) but I didn’t think it went well with the broth – it was simply too sweet!

The nasi lemak and otah were also served without heating up, so they’re as ordinary (or less so) as the ones sold in regular hawker food stalls.

Verdict: 2/5

Next stop: The Original Katong Laksa

We crossed the overhead bridge to the next laksa stall directly opposite 328 Katong Laksa. You can’t miss the coffeeshop with all its signboards calling out “The Original Katong Laksa”.

The coffeeshop was understandably packed on a Saturday lunchtime, but we managed to find seats and ordered our bowl of Katong laksa ($4.50, small).

First impressions: pale looking broth with curdy bits on top.

Now, the taste test. The broth is definitely more lemak (coconut milk) than 328’s, and the rempah taste wasn’t shining through as much. However, I did like the surprise kick from chopped laksa leaves which were folded into the noodles. The cockles were also fresh and ‘bloody’, just as they should taste!

Both Sesame and I agree that this is the better tasting bowl although we wished for the broth to be more flavourful.

Verdict: 3/5

It’s been 7 years since Gordon Ramsay lost to Aunty Nancy (Lucy Koh), but I wonder if he was matched with the best of Singapore? Comparing to these two bowls of laksa, what I very much prefer is the one from Shen Ji Fish Ball Noodles, located in 55 Chai Chee Drive.

Shen Ji’s laksa comes with a thick lemak gravy that’s bursting with flavours. The fishcake – which sells at $3 a piece – is handmade and oh so delicious. Given laksa is quite a high caloric dish, I would save my stomach for Shen Ji any day.

Where is your favourite laksa? Do share with us!

Visit Date: 1 August 2020 (Lunch)

Cost: From S$5.50 at 328 Katong Laksa; from S$4.50 at Original Katong Laksa